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October 2007

October 31, 2007

PLACES TO DINE: Albion River Inn Restaurant

3790 N. Hwy. 1, Albion, CA, 95410
Phone: 800-479-7944; 707-937-1919

What’s to Eat: Executive Chef Stephen Smith cooks up Seafood Chowder, Creamy Mushroom Pasta, Oven-Roasted Quail, Grilled Filet Mignon and much more.

Wine Lore: Mark Bowery (former sommelier at Masa’s, 1984-1989) has put together a spectacular wine and spirits list. It has earned Wine Spectator’s “Award of Excellence” for 12 consecutive years and was named “Best United States Wine List” by Restaurant Hospitality Magazine, 1998. Mark updates it weekly. Choose among 550 wines and 500 spirit items from many different countries. Included are some of our favorite CWC alumni, like vonStrasser, Monte Volpe, Handley, Gainey and Firestone.

Kudos: Food writers have fallen over each other with their praises: “Albion River Inn...one of the finest(restaurants) to grace the golden state shore.” —Bon Appetit; “Albion River Inn is one of the best vantage points for a Pacific sunset … best food on the North Coast.” — Sacramento Magazine - Travelers’Choice, Winning Destination; “...you’ll wine and dine unforgettably from Chef Stephen Smith’s superbly prepared menu and the award winning wine list.” — The Wine Spectator.

House Specialty: Lime & Ginger Grilled Prawns: sweet jumbo Mexican white shrimp marinated and basted on the grill with lime, ginger, garlic and soy, sauced with tangy cilantro/lime butter, and served with steamed coconut Jasmine rice and caramelized beets. Surprise, Surprise: The view really is as good as they say. Huge picture windows overlook an ocean panorama where sunsets rule. And after dinner, you can continue to enjoy it from your seaside room just a few steps from the restaurant.

Point of Pride: All ingredients are procured whenever possible from local purveyors. Seafood is freshly caught.

Favorite Dessert: Frozen Mocha-Praline Terrine: light Italian style semi-freddo flavored with Dutch cocoa, French vanilla beans, and espresso, layered with crunchy almond praline and served with a chocolate sauce.

Wineries Nearby: Handley Cellars, Roederer Estate, Greenwood Ridge, Navarro and others, in Mendocino County’s beautiful Anderson Valley.

October 30, 2007

Fun Fact: Corked Wine

A corked wine is a wine that is contaminated with TCA, which can impart a musty order or flavor to the wine.  TCA contamination usually comes from taintd corks, hence the moniker, but it can also come from barrels or other sources of wood within the producer's cellar.  Industry experts estimate that three to seven percent of wines have detectable levels of TCA contamination.  Most people become aware of TCA in quantities as small as five parts per trillion, though some can detect it at lower levels.  Even generally undetectable amounts can affect a wine's aroma and flavor, so if you suspect that a bottle is corked, it is perfectly acceptable to send it back in a restaurant or return it to the store where it was purchased.

source:  Wine Enthusiast, Oct 2007

October 25, 2007

A Mouthwatering Recipe from Baywood Cellars

Mediterranean-Style
Rib Eye Steak

“This is a great traditional family recipe of ours,” says Baywood owner John Cotta. “Soaking the steak in olive oil overnight gives the meat a wonderful flavor and texture.”

1. Soak a rib eye steak in extra virgin olive oil with fresh garlic and crushed red pepper overnight.
2. Over the top, sprinkle some oregano, black pepper, crushed bell pepper and garlic.
3. Grill at 450° 5 minutes per side for medium rare or more if desired.
4. Serve with your Baywood Cabernet Sauvignon!

www.baywood-cellars.com

October 24, 2007

Places to Stay: The Cottages of Napa Valley

1012 Darms Lane
Napa, CA 94558
707-252-7810

Clustered around a wide expanse of lawn, with stately Coast Redwoods, Portuguese Cork Oak, Russian Maple, Cedar and fruit trees standing sentinel, The Cottages of Napa Valley offer an intimate setting for a very personal experience of wine country living. “The uniqueness of this property is the privacy of having your own Napa Valley ‘home’,” says founder Mike Smith.

Set back off Hwy. 29 just a few minutes from the town of Napa, the eight cottages are placed close enough to each other to be neighborly, yet far enough apart for privacy. The two-acre grounds are a relaxing oasis from Napa Valley’s hustle. No wonder the Wine Spectator named this hide-away “among the most romantic and relaxed settings in Napa Valley.”

With 30 years as a craftsman architect, Mike has refurbished each dwelling in classic wine country style. Lawn chairs in front of each abode, with fire pits, encourage lounging with a glass of wine, roasting marshmallows, or just sitting back and enjoying the night sky. On Fridays and Saturdays, guests are invited to a casual early evening wine tasting in the barbecue area where local wineries like Jessup, Bell, Ceja and Fred Schweiger pour and sell their often limited production, hard-to-find bottlings.

Meanwhile, back inside your bright, many-windowed country cottage, you can soak in a deep bath, sprawl on the large four-poster, or kick back and enjoy music (Bose system) and wine (your complimentary bottle, with snacks, sits on your kitchen counter). Wake up to chirping birds the next morning and, on your doorstep, the best breakfast basket ever from Bouchon Bakery, chockful of tasty pastries, orange juice and more. More proof that there’s “no place like home” at The Cottages of Napa Valley. Salud!

October 23, 2007

Five Wine Words to Remember

Wine terminology offers a barrelful of definitions about everything from a wine's mouthfeel to a vine's stage of growth. Here are three "wine words" that have tripped most of us up at some point -- and never
will again!

1. Vintage: This refers to the year the grapes were harvested. Unless the wine is a non-vintage blend
(as some sparkling wines are), this year will appear on the bottle. "Vintage" can also mean "best" as in "This is a vintage wine," or "That was a vintage year."

2. Palate: It has two meanings: the roof of the mouth, and, the ability to discern and savor various tastes. We all have both, but some of us can detect many more flavors than others. Note the spelling of palate is not pallet (a wooden platform) or palette (a board of artist's colors).

3. Quaff: This can be a verb, as in, "I like to quaff this wine"; or an adjective, as in, "This is a great quaffing wine." Quaff means to sip a wine, by itself, without food. A quaffing wine is often a light wine like a Pinot Grigio.

I think I shall go quaff a wine from a vintage year, and see what my palate discovers. Salud!

October 22, 2007

75 and Aging Beautifully at Bargetto Winery

When the Bargetto family celebrates their winery’s birthday in 2008,the cake will blaze with 75 candles. In the glow of candlelight, surely they will feel the spirit of all those Bargettos who worked to build their successful family winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Occupying a place of honor among them will be Giuseppe Bargetto, a peasant with scarcely an education who joined Santa Cruz’s burgeoning wine industry in 1890. Toasting his memory will be a host of relatives, including Philip and Uncle “Barba” Giovanin, who ran the original Bargetto winery in San Francisco from 1910-1917; Silvia Bargetto Nolan, who ran their Santa Cruz retail shop from 1934-1955; John Bargetto who oversaw the winery’s expansion after WWII; and John’s son, Lawrence, who labored in tough times during the ’60s and ’70s to position the winery for the success it enjoys today. Lawrence has passed on, but his sons John (Vice-President/Director of Winemaking & Vineyard Management) and Martin (President) and daughter, Loretta (Administration), continue to upgrade operations.

Their wine line-up has evolved to include their upper level “LA VITA” wine as well as a bevy of estate wines from the Santa Cruz appellation. Adding to the continuous improvement is more and better cellar equipment. “Last year, in the middle of harvest, we installed a 12,700 gallon tank, the largest in Bargetto’s history,” notes John. “We had to dismantle part of the winery building to move it in, because it would not fit through the door.” Bargetto’s Carignane, was bottled and labeled by a new bottling line “twice as fast as the old line,” John adds. “Most importantly, the wine enters the bottle in a much more protected way with much less oxygen pickup.” But the winery’s forward momentum isn’t confined to the cellar…

Out at Bargetto’s 50-acre estate, the Regan Vineyard, near Corralitos about 15 miles southeast of the winery and just seven miles from the ocean, Bargetto leads the way in the use of alternative energy for agriculture. A year ago, John installed sixteen panels that comprise a 3.0kw photovoltaic system. This system is one of the first to be used in a California vineyard where electricity is needed for well pumps. While solar power is gaining ground in winery facilities (at Schaefer and Grgich Hills, for example), these vineyard panels are something new and have earned John speaking engagements at major seminars like the recent Ecological Farming Conference in Asilomar, attended by more than 1,000 participants eager to “go green”. “These solar panels are just the latest in our sustainable winegrowing efforts as we strive to be good stewards of the land,” explains John. “For me, it’s exciting that we are doing our small part for the planet.”  Bargetto’s ongoing commitment to sustainable winegrowing can be tracked each month on its website, where it posts the earth-friendly practices currently in use, from barn owls for gophers to erosion control.

And every day, it’s solar power… Every day, Bargetto’s solar panels generate electricity that then goes into the local PG&E power company grid. By irrigating at off-peak hours, John buys his electricity cheap (8 cents per kilowatt hour) and sells it at four times the price (37 cents), from May through October. Did the family resist this $25,000 investment? “Since I’m the managing general partner, I have autonomy, and autonomy is a beautiful word,” John chuckles. “Basically I only have to answer to myself on this baby.” The answer is sounding sweet; Bargetto will recoup this solar investment in seven years and meanwhile earns significant tax breaks for its alternative energy from the federal government and California. Moreover, during its 25-year lifetime, this little system will avoid putting 200,000 pounds of carbon dioxide/greenhouse gas into the environment. “I found that to be astounding,” says John.

With panels in place, John and vineyard foreman Jesus Figueroa are free to focus on making the most of Bargetto’s 36 acres of vines in the benchlands of Corralitos. With its fog and cool summer, the estate is ideal for Pinot Noir, and as that variety races past Merlot in consumer popularity, the Bargettos are grafting Pinot Noir to Merlot vines (a pile of Pinot Noir vines are kept comfy at 39°F in Bargetto’s guesthouse refrigerator!)

Upon their 75th anniversary, the Bargettos see their Regan Vineyard as a key to their success. “It allows us to get back to our roots, to have eight Santa Cruz Mountain estate wines, to control our grape sources (the most important part of winemaking) and to hone our identity,” says John. Focused, and moving forward with “green energy” at Bargetto!

Join Bargetto during its celebratory year at its tasting room, 3535 N. Main Street, Soquel, CA 95073, 831-475-2258, or at their Monterey tasting room, 700-L Cannery Row, Monterey, CA 93940, 831-373-4053.

October 19, 2007

Comfort Food from Nine North Wine Company

Cinnamon Apple Pork Tenderloin

“Having the resources of three separate families involved in our company is like having lots of cooks in the kitchen. Here is a favorite recipe of ours that has been passed around by various members of our extended families,” says Nine North Partner, James Harder. “We can’t recall where or who originated it, but it is one we all love. We hope you enjoy it and will see that it complements our Proprietary red or white blend quite nicely. Enjoy! 

Serves: 4, Preparation time:  1-2 hours

Ingredients:

1 pound pork tenderloin
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 apples—peeled, cored and sliced
2 tablespoons raisins

Preparation:

Preheat the oven to 400° F. Place the pork tenderloin in a roasting pan or casserole dish with a lid. Combine the remaining ingredients in a bowl and stir. Spoon the apple mixture around the pork tenderloin. Cover and bake 40 minutes. Remove the lid and spoon the apple mixture over the tenderloin. Return to the oven and bake 15-20 minutes longer until tenderloin is browned and cooked through.

October 18, 2007

FUN FACT

Any wine that has “Napa” or “Sonoma” on its label must contain at least 75% wine made from grapes grown in those counties, according to recent California law. Other counties like Santa Barbara and Mendocino may rally for similar treatment…

October 11, 2007

A Recipe From Ledgewood Creek

Grecian Goddess Pork

“We’ve had this recipe from Chefs.com on hand at the winery for some time. We use it personally and frequently for special events. Quite simply it just works with both our red and white wines,” says James Frisbie, winery owner.  We call it the modified “Grecian Goddess Pork”. Modified because with all due respect to Grecian women, we would never use anything but whole yogurt in the recipe,” says James.

Ingredients:
1/4 cup olive oil
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/2 tsp. dry rosemary, crumbled
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 pork chops, 1-1/2 inch thick
1 cup plain whole yogurt
1/2 tsp. oregano
1/4 tsp. garlic salt
1/2 cucumber, thinly sliced
2 Tbsp. scallion, sliced

Preparation:
Combine first 4 ingredients in a bowl. Pour over chops in heavy plastic bag and seal. Marinate in refrigerator 4 to 24 hours. Combine next 5 ingredients and pepper to taste in a bowl. Stir well and refrigerate, covered, several hours to allow flavors to blend. Prepare covered grill with drip pan in center, banked by medium hot coals, or turn on broiler. Remove chops from marinade. Reserve marinade. Grill or broil chops 12-15 minutes, turning once, and basting occasionally with reserved marinade. Spoon yogurt sauce over grilled chops and serve remaining yogurt sauce on side. Wonderful with your Ledgewood Creek Merlot!

October 09, 2007

SMALL ARTISAN WINEMAKERS: LESS IS MORE


“If a winery is small, it must not be very successful,” someone recently told me. “If they made good wines, they’d be selling more of them.”

Less true words were never spoken!

It is the small producers who have the time to handcraft wines in so many ways. Such producers are often mom & pops, “wineries without walls”, making a few thousand cases a year, or even less than a thousand.

And their wines can be among the best, because they are artisan products.

You’ve heard of artisan cheese? Artisan chocolate? People accept the idea that artisan food producers make small quantities. Which is why their products are so good. And sometimes expensive.

Wine is no different. Because they are making less wine, small producers can take more time to reach for perfection … in how the vineyard is tended, how the wine is fermented and cared for in the barrel.

Don’t pass up a winery because it is small. On the contrary!

Search out those small producers, for they are often the gems in the crown of California winemaking.